
The Verdict
One of the most atmospheric villages in Abruzzo — a maze old town above a heart-shaped lake, with a tradition that's still alive. Worth a night for the lake and the alleys.
Why go
For the heart-shaped lake (Lago di Scanno), the maze old town, and the traditional Abruzzo that's still here — the village and the landscape together.
The Field Guide take
Scanno is perched on a rocky outcrop above the Lago di Scanno in the Abruzzo region. It is often cited as one of the most photographed villages in Italy, a distinction earned by its dense, labyrinthine street plan and the traditional clothing still worn by some of the local women. Unlike the standardized hill towns of Tuscany, Scanno feels like a place where the architecture was molded by the necessity of the terrain and the harsh winters of the Apennine Mountains. ## The Maze Old Town The historic center is a complex network of steep stairways, arched passages, and stone houses that seem to stack on top of one another. The town is remarkably intact, having avoided the heavy-handed modernization seen elsewhere. Walking through the alleys, you will encounter original doorways, stone thresholds, and the quiet dignity of a mountain town that remains connected to its shepherd-pastoral roots. It is not an accessible place for those with mobility issues, as the elevation change within the village is constant and significant. ## The Heart-Shaped Lake Below the village lies the Lago di Scanno, a natural lake formed by ancient landslides. From specific viewpoints on the mountainside, the lake takes on a distinct heart shape. This is the primary subject of most local photography. The lakeside offers a place to escape the heat of the lower elevations, with wooded paths surrounding the water. It is a calm, contemplative environment that contrasts with the intense, vertical nature of the village above. ## The Cultural Context Scanno is also known for its gold jewelry, specifically the 'presentosa,' a traditional medallion often given to brides. The survival of such traditions, alongside the unique regional cuisine which leans heavily on local grains and legumes, gives the village a distinct identity. It is an ideal destination for those who want to see a version of Italy that feels grounded and resistant to globalized tourism. Scanno suits travelers interested in sociology and history as much as those seeking a scenic view. It is a slow, atmospheric experience that requires walking and an interest in observing the daily rhythm of an isolated Apennine community.
What makes it worth going
The lakeside village of Abruzzo, with a maze old town, traditional women in black shawls, and the heart-shaped lake below — one of the most photographed villages in Italy.
Things to do
- town
The old town maze
The maze of alleys and staircases in the old town — one of the best-preserved village fabrics in Abruzzo. Look for the traditional women in black shawls, still here.
2 hrs
- lake
Lago di Scanno (the heart-shaped lake)
The lake below the village, heart-shaped from one viewpoint (the road above). The photo; the beach; the boat rentals.
- shop
The traditional goldsmiths
Scanno has a goldsmith tradition — the 'presentosa', the traditional Abruzzo pendant, is made here. A real, local craft.
Eat
- dish
Arrosticini
The Abruzzese lamb skewers; Scanno is in the sheep country.
- dish
Scrippelle 'mbusse
The Abruzzese crepes in broth — the regional comfort food, a strange and good hybrid.
Stay
- hotel
A B&B in the old town
Stay inside the maze for the night walk and the dawn light.
What's nearby & pairs with
What to eat here
The regional specialties — not tonight's restaurant, the food worth understanding before you go.
Dish
Maccheroni alla Chitarra
Maccheroni alla chitarra is the defining pasta of the Abruzzo region. The dish takes its name from the 'chitarra' or 'carrature', a wooden frame strung with parallel steel wires resembling the strings of a guitar. Historical records suggest the tool emerged in the Chieti province during the 19th century, though similar pasta cutting techniques have existed in central Italy for centuries. It represents a transition from simple home-rolled dough to a more refined, structured noodle that retains sauce effectively due to its porous surface. The pasta is deeply rooted in the agrarian culture of the Abruzzo Apennines. Because the noodles are cut on wire, they possess a distinct square cross-section, which creates a firmer 'al dente' texture than standard round-extruded or hand-cut pasta. The tool itself is a domestic artifact, often passed down through generations, and its use is synonymous with the preparation of Sunday family meals across the region, from the coast of Pescara to the mountainous interior of L'Aquila.
Dish
Arrosticini
Arrosticini originated in the mountainous interior of Abruzzo, specifically within the Gran Sasso and Majella massifs. Historically, the dish emerged from the transhumance culture, where shepherds moved flocks between the Abruzzese mountains and the plains of Puglia. When older sheep—those no longer productive for milk or wool—were culled, the tough, lean meat needed a way to be prepared that made it palatable and efficient for nomadic life. Using small, uniform cubes allowed the meat to cook rapidly over an open flame, providing a high-protein meal that could be prepared with minimal equipment while tending to flocks in remote pastures. It evolved from a subsistence survival food into a defined cultural staple centered around the province of Pescara and the town of Farindola. By the mid-20th century, the dish transitioned from rural firesides to restaurants, becoming a focal point of Abruzzese social gatherings.
Dish
Scrippelle 'n Busso
Scrippelle 'n busso is the defining first course of the Teramo province in Abruzzo. While crepes are often associated with France, the scrippella is a foundational element of local identity, likely stemming from the historical cultural exchange between Southern Italy and the French influence during the Bourbon era. The term 'n busso' roughly translates to 'in a splash' or 'in a container,' referring to the immersion of the rolled crepes in the liquid. Local lore often credits the invention to a cook named Enrico Castorani, who allegedly ran out of traditional pasta and improvised by serving thin, egg-based pancakes rolled with cheese in broth. Whether or not this specific anecdote is the absolute truth, the dish effectively replaced stuffed pasta in the Teramo diet, becoming the ceremonial centerpiece of religious feasts and family gatherings. It stands as a testament to the region's ability to create sophisticated textures from minimal, humble ingredients.
Getting there & around
Train
Limited or no direct rail access.
Car
A car adds value here.The old town is narrow; park at the edge. The lake is a short drive below.
We don't publish real-time schedules. Confirm train times on Trenitalia or Italo, and check current ZTL boundaries locally.
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