
The Verdict
The 'mother mountain' of Abruzzo — the second great massif (Monte Amaro, 2,793m), the rock hermitages, and the wildest of the Abruzzo parks. Worth a day from Sulmona for the mountain and the hermitages.
Why go
For Monte Amaro (2,793m, the second-highest of the Apennines), the rock hermitages (the Eremo di Sant'Onofrio), and the wildest of the Abruzzo parks.
The Field Guide take
The Maiella massif, rising abruptly in the heart of Abruzzo, is often referred to as the 'mother mountain' of the region. It is a massive, limestone structure that feels fundamentally different from the peaks of the north. It is jagged, ancient, and deeply connected to the religious history of the local people who sought solitude in its dense forests and hidden caves.
Monte Amaro
At 2,793 meters, Monte Amaro is the second-highest peak in the Apennine range. Unlike the grass-covered peaks of some nearby ranges, the upper reaches of Maiella are a stark, moon-like landscape of rocks and scree slopes. It is a grueling, exposed hike to the summit, and there is no room for error. The wind on the high ridges can be ferocious, even in the middle of summer, reminding hikers that this is a harsh, wild environment.
Rock Hermitages
One of the most unique aspects of the Maiella is the presence of hermitages carved into the limestone cliffs. The Eremo di Sant'Onofrio is the most well-known of these. These small stone structures were built by monks and hermits who lived in total isolation from the world below. Exploring these sites gives you a direct look at the ascetic history of Abruzzo. The walk to these sites is rarely strenuous but requires navigating some uneven and narrow paths.
The Wilderness Experience
The Maiella National Park is significantly less commercial than its northern counterparts. You will not find large-scale ski resorts or overcrowded trails here. Instead, you find quiet paths that wind through beech forests and mountain passes. It is a destination for those who want to see the wilder, less polished side of Italy. If you are based in Sulmona, you can reach the park easily, but come prepared with proper footwear and a respect for the isolation of the landscape.
What makes it worth going
The 'mother mountain' of Abruzzo, the second massif of the Apennines (Monte Amaro, 2,793m), with hermitages in the rock, the park, and the wilder side of Abruzzo.
Things to do
- mountain
Monte Amaro (2,793m)
The second-highest peak of the Apennines, with the hike (from the Blockhaus) and the view over the Adriatic. The summit of the 'mother mountain'.
- monastery
The rock hermitages (Eremo di Sant'Onofrio)
The hermitages carved in the rock — the Eremo di Sant'Onofrio (Sulmona), the Eremo di San Bartolomeo (the Lazio side). The medieval hermits; the reason beyond the mountain.
- settlement
Pacentro & the hill villages
The stone hill villages at the foot of the Maiella (Pacentro, one of the most beautiful in Italy) — the base and the atmospheric part.
Eat
- dish
Arrosticini
The Abruzzese lamb skewers; the Maiella is the sheep country.
Stay
- hotel
Sulmona (the base) or a refugio
Stay in Sulmona for the base, or a refugio for the mountain. Pacentro for the village.
What's nearby & pairs with
What to eat here
The regional specialties — not tonight's restaurant, the food worth understanding before you go.
Dish
Maccheroni alla Chitarra
Maccheroni alla chitarra is the defining pasta of the Abruzzo region. The dish takes its name from the 'chitarra' or 'carrature', a wooden frame strung with parallel steel wires resembling the strings of a guitar. Historical records suggest the tool emerged in the Chieti province during the 19th century, though similar pasta cutting techniques have existed in central Italy for centuries. It represents a transition from simple home-rolled dough to a more refined, structured noodle that retains sauce effectively due to its porous surface. The pasta is deeply rooted in the agrarian culture of the Abruzzo Apennines. Because the noodles are cut on wire, they possess a distinct square cross-section, which creates a firmer 'al dente' texture than standard round-extruded or hand-cut pasta. The tool itself is a domestic artifact, often passed down through generations, and its use is synonymous with the preparation of Sunday family meals across the region, from the coast of Pescara to the mountainous interior of L'Aquila.
Dish
Arrosticini
Arrosticini originated in the mountainous interior of Abruzzo, specifically within the Gran Sasso and Majella massifs. Historically, the dish emerged from the transhumance culture, where shepherds moved flocks between the Abruzzese mountains and the plains of Puglia. When older sheep—those no longer productive for milk or wool—were culled, the tough, lean meat needed a way to be prepared that made it palatable and efficient for nomadic life. Using small, uniform cubes allowed the meat to cook rapidly over an open flame, providing a high-protein meal that could be prepared with minimal equipment while tending to flocks in remote pastures. It evolved from a subsistence survival food into a defined cultural staple centered around the province of Pescara and the town of Farindola. By the mid-20th century, the dish transitioned from rural firesides to restaurants, becoming a focal point of Abruzzese social gatherings.
Dish
Scrippelle 'n Busso
Scrippelle 'n busso is the defining first course of the Teramo province in Abruzzo. While crepes are often associated with France, the scrippella is a foundational element of local identity, likely stemming from the historical cultural exchange between Southern Italy and the French influence during the Bourbon era. The term 'n busso' roughly translates to 'in a splash' or 'in a container,' referring to the immersion of the rolled crepes in the liquid. Local lore often credits the invention to a cook named Enrico Castorani, who allegedly ran out of traditional pasta and improvised by serving thin, egg-based pancakes rolled with cheese in broth. Whether or not this specific anecdote is the absolute truth, the dish effectively replaced stuffed pasta in the Teramo diet, becoming the ceremonial centerpiece of religious feasts and family gatherings. It stands as a testament to the region's ability to create sophisticated textures from minimal, humble ingredients.
Getting there & around
Train
Limited or no direct rail access.
Car
A car adds value here.The massif is in the Maiella national park; the access is from Sulmona, Pacentro, or Fara San Martino. A car is the way.
We don't publish real-time schedules. Confirm train times on Trenitalia or Italo, and check current ZTL boundaries locally.
Ready to plan?
Ready to turn discovery into a trip?
Italy Field Guide helps you decide where to go. When you're ready to build the actual day-by-day itinerary, take your saved places to Travel Itinerary Co — your interests go with you.
Turn your saved Italy places into a trip