
The Verdict
The mountain capital of Abruzzo — a grand basilica, the 99-spout fountain, and a city still recovering. Worth a stop for the Collemaggio and the mountain setting, but check what's open.
Why go
To see the Basilica di Collemaggio — the great Abruzzese church, with its pink-and-white facade — and the Fontana delle 99 Cannelle, the bizarre medieval fountain.
The Field Guide take
L'Aquila, the capital of Abruzzo, is a city shaped by its high-altitude setting and the seismic reality of the Apennines. Located in a high basin, it has served as a central point for regional power since the 13th century. Following the 2009 earthquake, the city has been in a long, ongoing process of reconstruction, which makes the current visitor experience unique—a mix of restored grandeur and the ongoing labor of rebuilding. It is a place for the observant traveler. ## The Basilica di Collemaggio The Basilica di Collemaggio is the city's architectural peak. Its facade is a masterpiece of Romanesque design, featuring a geometric arrangement of pink and white stone that stands out against the stark mountain horizon. The interior is light, sparse, and dignified. It is a building that has survived both time and disaster, acting as a visual anchor for the city. Seeing it in person offers a perspective on the architectural resilience that defines this part of the world. ## The Fountain of 99 Spouts A curiosity of medieval hydraulic engineering, the Fontana delle 99 Cannelle is located on the edge of the old city. The fountain is a series of ninety-nine stone faces, each releasing water. The number is symbolic of the ninety-nine castles that were allegedly brought together to found the city. It is a strange, quiet place that speaks to the historical importance of water management in a high-mountain basin. ## Why Visit L'Aquila Visiting L'Aquila today requires an awareness of its condition. Many parts of the city remain restricted, and the recovery is visible everywhere. However, for those interested in history, architecture, and the realities of modern Italy, it is a necessary stop. It provides a deeper understanding of the Abruzzo region than the more polished, resort-oriented towns nearby. It is a place of gravity and serious heritage, best suited for the traveler who wants to see Italy beyond the standard postcard imagery. Check local access before arriving, as the situation on the ground remains fluid.
What makes it worth going
The mountain capital of Abruzzo, founded in the 13th century, with the Collemaggio basilica and the Fountain of 99 Spouts — still rebuilding from the 2009 earthquake.
Things to do
- basilica
Basilica di Santa Maria di Collemaggio
The 13th-century basilica with the pink-and-white facade and the Holy Door — the great Abruzzese church, restored after the 2009 quake. The reason to come.
1 hr
- viewpoint
Fontana delle 99 Cannelle
The 13th-century fountain with 99 spouts (one for each of the founding castles) — a strange, beautiful medieval monument.
- castle
The Spanish Fort (Forte Spagnolo)
The 16th-century castle that now houses the Abruzzo National Museum — the views from the ramparts are the bonus.
Eat
- pasta
Maccheroni alla chitarra
The Abruzzese egg-pasta, cut on the 'guitar' (a stringed frame); with ragù or lamb.
- dish
Arrosticini
The lamb skewers; the L'Aquila version, with the mountain air.
Stay
- hotel
A hotel in the center (check status)
Some central hotels are still operating; the reconstruction is ongoing.
Experiences Worth Booking
Gran Sasso day from L'Aquila
full dayA drive up to Campo Imperatore, the high plateau under the Gran Sasso. The wilder Abruzzo.
Campo Imperatore is the high plain under the Gran Sasso — the 'little Tibet' of Italy, at 2,100m.
Suits: Drivers and mountain lovers.
What's nearby & pairs with
What to eat here
The regional specialties — not tonight's restaurant, the food worth understanding before you go.
Dish
Maccheroni alla Chitarra
Maccheroni alla chitarra is the defining pasta of the Abruzzo region. The dish takes its name from the 'chitarra' or 'carrature', a wooden frame strung with parallel steel wires resembling the strings of a guitar. Historical records suggest the tool emerged in the Chieti province during the 19th century, though similar pasta cutting techniques have existed in central Italy for centuries. It represents a transition from simple home-rolled dough to a more refined, structured noodle that retains sauce effectively due to its porous surface. The pasta is deeply rooted in the agrarian culture of the Abruzzo Apennines. Because the noodles are cut on wire, they possess a distinct square cross-section, which creates a firmer 'al dente' texture than standard round-extruded or hand-cut pasta. The tool itself is a domestic artifact, often passed down through generations, and its use is synonymous with the preparation of Sunday family meals across the region, from the coast of Pescara to the mountainous interior of L'Aquila.
Dish
Arrosticini
Arrosticini originated in the mountainous interior of Abruzzo, specifically within the Gran Sasso and Majella massifs. Historically, the dish emerged from the transhumance culture, where shepherds moved flocks between the Abruzzese mountains and the plains of Puglia. When older sheep—those no longer productive for milk or wool—were culled, the tough, lean meat needed a way to be prepared that made it palatable and efficient for nomadic life. Using small, uniform cubes allowed the meat to cook rapidly over an open flame, providing a high-protein meal that could be prepared with minimal equipment while tending to flocks in remote pastures. It evolved from a subsistence survival food into a defined cultural staple centered around the province of Pescara and the town of Farindola. By the mid-20th century, the dish transitioned from rural firesides to restaurants, becoming a focal point of Abruzzese social gatherings.
Dish
Scrippelle 'n Busso
Scrippelle 'n busso is the defining first course of the Teramo province in Abruzzo. While crepes are often associated with France, the scrippella is a foundational element of local identity, likely stemming from the historical cultural exchange between Southern Italy and the French influence during the Bourbon era. The term 'n busso' roughly translates to 'in a splash' or 'in a container,' referring to the immersion of the rolled crepes in the liquid. Local lore often credits the invention to a cook named Enrico Castorani, who allegedly ran out of traditional pasta and improvised by serving thin, egg-based pancakes rolled with cheese in broth. Whether or not this specific anecdote is the absolute truth, the dish effectively replaced stuffed pasta in the Teramo diet, becoming the ceremonial centerpiece of religious feasts and family gatherings. It stands as a testament to the region's ability to create sophisticated textures from minimal, humble ingredients.
Getting there & around
Train
Well-connected by rail.
Car
A car adds value here.The center is restricted; park at the edge. Much was damaged in 2009 — some areas are still scaffolded.
We don't publish real-time schedules. Confirm train times on Trenitalia or Italo, and check current ZTL boundaries locally.
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