
The Verdict
The most elegant town in Abruzzo — a grand aqueduct, a linear old town, and the confetti industry that's been here for centuries. Worth a night as a base for the Maiella.
Why go
For the aqueduct and the Piazza Garibaldi, the confetti tradition, and as the base for the Maiella mountains.
The Field Guide take
Sulmona is located in the Peligna Valley in the Abruzzo region, surrounded by the peaks of the Maiella National Park. It is a town of clear, linear geometry, organized around a long central axis that eventually opens into the massive Piazza Garibaldi. Historically known as the birthplace of the poet Ovid, it remains a cultural center for the surrounding mountain villages. The town’s atmosphere is refined, lacking the chaotic clutter found in many Italian mountain settlements. ## The Aqueduct and the Streets The most striking physical feature of Sulmona is the medieval aqueduct that runs along the edge of the town center. It still stands as a structural backbone, framing the historic core. Walking the Corso Ovidio, you find local shops that specialize in the town’s famous export: confetti. These sugar-coated almonds are a centuries-old tradition here, and the shops display them in elaborate, floral-like arrangements. It is a specific, niche industry that adds a layer of character to the local commerce. ## A Base for the Maiella Sulmona is the most practical entry point for the Maiella mountains. If you are looking to access the interior of Abruzzo, this town provides a stable, elegant environment to return to after a day of hiking or driving through the limestone plateaus. Unlike coastal towns, the pace here is dictated by the mountain seasons. The weather is cool, and the evenings in the piazza have a social, communal gravity that is rarely found in tourist-heavy areas. ## Who It Suits Sulmona appeals to travelers who value history and a sense of regional identity. It is not an adrenaline-filled mountain resort; it is a place where you walk the streets, buy local specialties, and observe the slow rhythm of Abruzzese life. Families will find it easy to navigate, and hikers will appreciate the proximity to the high trails. It is an honest town, comfortable in its history and its role as a regional hub for central Italy.
What makes it worth going
The elegant medieval town in a valley below the Maiella, birthplace of Ovid and home of confetti (sugar-coated almonds) — Abruzzo's most atmospheric town.
Things to do
- piazza
Piazza Garibaldi & the Acquedotto Medioevale
The grand piazza with the 13th-century aqueduct, backed by the Maiella — one of the great Abruzzese views, and the linear heart of the old town.
1 hr
- shop
The confetti shops (Corso Ovidio)
The sugar-coated almond industry is Sulmona's claim — the shops line Corso Ovidio. Buy confetti, the local pastilles, and the sugar flowers.
- cathedral
Cathedral of San Panfilo
The Romanesque cathedral, with the crypt below street level — the town has sunk over the centuries.
Eat
- dish
Arrosticini
The Abruzzese lamb skewers — the great street food of the region. Sulmona does them as well as anywhere.
- dessert
Confetti & 'l'acqua', the local anise
The sugar-coated almonds and a glass of anise liqueur — the Sulmona after-dinner.
Stay
- hotel
A B&B in the center
Stay inside the old town for the aqueduct walks and the Corso.
Experiences Worth Booking
Maiella hike from Sulmona
full dayA day in the Maiella — the 'mother mountain' of Abruzzo — with a refugio lunch. The wilder side of Abruzzo.
Sulmona is the best base for the Maiella, the second great Abruzzo massif; a day hits the high pastures and the refugios.
Suits: Hikers and nature lovers.
What to eat here
The regional specialties — not tonight's restaurant, the food worth understanding before you go.
Dish
Maccheroni alla Chitarra
Maccheroni alla chitarra is the defining pasta of the Abruzzo region. The dish takes its name from the 'chitarra' or 'carrature', a wooden frame strung with parallel steel wires resembling the strings of a guitar. Historical records suggest the tool emerged in the Chieti province during the 19th century, though similar pasta cutting techniques have existed in central Italy for centuries. It represents a transition from simple home-rolled dough to a more refined, structured noodle that retains sauce effectively due to its porous surface. The pasta is deeply rooted in the agrarian culture of the Abruzzo Apennines. Because the noodles are cut on wire, they possess a distinct square cross-section, which creates a firmer 'al dente' texture than standard round-extruded or hand-cut pasta. The tool itself is a domestic artifact, often passed down through generations, and its use is synonymous with the preparation of Sunday family meals across the region, from the coast of Pescara to the mountainous interior of L'Aquila.
Dish
Arrosticini
Arrosticini originated in the mountainous interior of Abruzzo, specifically within the Gran Sasso and Majella massifs. Historically, the dish emerged from the transhumance culture, where shepherds moved flocks between the Abruzzese mountains and the plains of Puglia. When older sheep—those no longer productive for milk or wool—were culled, the tough, lean meat needed a way to be prepared that made it palatable and efficient for nomadic life. Using small, uniform cubes allowed the meat to cook rapidly over an open flame, providing a high-protein meal that could be prepared with minimal equipment while tending to flocks in remote pastures. It evolved from a subsistence survival food into a defined cultural staple centered around the province of Pescara and the town of Farindola. By the mid-20th century, the dish transitioned from rural firesides to restaurants, becoming a focal point of Abruzzese social gatherings.
Dish
Scrippelle 'n Busso
Scrippelle 'n busso is the defining first course of the Teramo province in Abruzzo. While crepes are often associated with France, the scrippella is a foundational element of local identity, likely stemming from the historical cultural exchange between Southern Italy and the French influence during the Bourbon era. The term 'n busso' roughly translates to 'in a splash' or 'in a container,' referring to the immersion of the rolled crepes in the liquid. Local lore often credits the invention to a cook named Enrico Castorani, who allegedly ran out of traditional pasta and improvised by serving thin, egg-based pancakes rolled with cheese in broth. Whether or not this specific anecdote is the absolute truth, the dish effectively replaced stuffed pasta in the Teramo diet, becoming the ceremonial centerpiece of religious feasts and family gatherings. It stands as a testament to the region's ability to create sophisticated textures from minimal, humble ingredients.
Getting there & around
Train
Well-connected by rail.
Car
A car adds value here.The center is restricted; park at the edge lots. The old town is a linear walk.
We don't publish real-time schedules. Confirm train times on Trenitalia or Italo, and check current ZTL boundaries locally.
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