The Verdict
The dish of Puglia, and the test of a good cook. The orecchiette must be hand-shaped; the cime di rapa must be bitter; the anchovy is the depth.
Why go
To eat the pasta that defines Puglia, made by the women in the alleys of Bari Vecchia.
What makes it worth going
The ear-shaped pasta of Puglia, with turnip tops (cime di rapa), garlic, oil, and anchovy.
Things to do
- experience
Bari Vecchia alleys — the pasta women
In the old town, the women shape orecchiette on wooden boards in the street. Buy some, or eat them in a nearby trattoria. The most authentic Puglian food experience.
1 hr
- trattoria
Osteria Le Arpie (Bari)
The benchmark orecchiette e cime di rapa, in Bari Vecchia. The pasta is hand-shaped, the turnip tops are bitter, the anchovy is the depth. Reserve.
1.5 hrs
- farm
A masseria in the interior
The orecchiette are made on the farm; the flour is local, the cime di rapa are the field. The farm is the source.
half day
- festival
A Sagra delle Orecchiette
The village festivals in summer, where the orecchiette are shaped in the square. The 'little ears' are the show.
full day
Eat
- pasta
Orecchiette con cime di rapa
The classic: hand-shaped ear pasta, with bitter turnip tops (cime di rapa), garlic, oil, and anchovy. The ear holds the sauce; the bitter and the salt are the balance.
- pasta
Orecchiette al ragù di castrato
The festive version, with a lamb ragù. The meat and the ear are the table.
Stay
- neighborhood
Bari Vecchia
The old town, where the pasta women and the best trattorias are. Walkable and authentic.
- coastal town
Polignano a Mare or Monopoli
The nearby coast, with good trattorias and a beautiful setting.
Experiences Worth Booking
Orecchiette-making class in Bari Vecchia
2 hrsThe dough, the ear shape, the cime di rapa. The shape is the technique.
The orecchiette are shaped by hand, with a knife and a thumb; a class shows you the ear and the drag.
Suits: Pasta makers who want the Puglian classic; the ear is the secret.
What's nearby & pairs with
More food from Puglia
Dish
Orecchiette con le Cime di Rapa
'Little ear' pasta with bitter turnip greens, garlic, and anchovy — the dish that defines Puglia.
Dish
Tiella Barese
Rice, potatoes, and mussels baked in a pan — Puglia's one-pan meal, from the fishermen of Bari.
Dish
Bombette
Small rolls of pork stuffed with cheese and capocollo, grilled — the great meat snack of the Puglian butcher.
Dish
Taralli Pugliesi
Baked, boiled-then-baked bread rings — the crunchy snack of Puglia, eaten with everything.
Cheese
Burrata
A mozzarella pouch filled with cream and curd — Puglia's most beloved dairy export.
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