Caciocavallo

Caciocavallo is the definitive cheese of southern Italy, a firm, stretched-curd product that serves as a staple of the Basilicata diet. It is easily identified by its signature teardrop shape and the way it is suspended in pairs from wooden beams, a traditional preservation method that dictates both its name and its texture. While the term caciocavallo covers various regional iterations across the south, the versions found in the rugged highlands of Basilicata are distinguished by the specific use of milk from the Podolica cow.

What it is

Caciocavallo is a pasta filata (stretched-curd) cheese made from cow’s milk and rennet. In Basilicata, producers prize milk from the Podolica breed—a hardy, grey-coated cattle that grazes on the wild herbs and shrubs of the Apennine Mountains. The cheese ranges in flavor and texture depending on the duration of its aging process. A young caciocavallo (aged for a few months) is firm, pale, and mild. A stagionato (long-aged) wheel is dense, straw-colored, and develops a sharp, nutty profile that can become increasingly spicy or piquant over time.

Origin and history

The history of caciocavallo is tied to transhumance, the seasonal migration of livestock between mountain pastures and lowland plains. Historically, shepherds needed a food source that could endure long journeys and varying temperatures. Hanging the cheeses in pairs over a pole—or a cavallo (on horseback)—allowed the rounds to be balanced easily across a pack animal’s back for transport. Over centuries, this practical solution became a standard aging technique. By suspending the cheese, producers ensure uniform air circulation, which helps the rind develop while the interior hardens into its distinctive structure.

How it’s made

The production process begins by heating raw cow's milk and adding rennet to form curds. Once the curd settles, it is broken down and left to acidify. The key step is the stretching: the curd is immersed in near-boiling water and pulled by hand, manipulated until it becomes smooth and elastic. The maker shapes the mass into a pear-like gourd, often incorporating a small, rounded head at the top to secure the rope. After being molded, the cheese is briefly brined and then hung from wooden beams in a temperature-controlled cellar. The length of time it remains hanging determines its final character, as the cheese slowly loses moisture and its flavor compounds concentrate.

Where to eat it

Basilicata is the best place to encounter high-quality caciocavallo. The town of Potenza and the surrounding mountain villages are home to numerous artisanal producers who maintain traditional methods. Seek out caciocavallo podolico, which is the most prized version due to the complexity the mountain-grazed milk imparts. While it is rarely found on restaurant menus as a complex prepared dish, it is a fixture in local markets, butcher shops, and deli counters (salumerie). In Matera and the smaller hilltop towns, it is frequently served as part of an antipasto board or sliced simply as a snack.

When and how

Caciocavallo is available year-round. How you choose to eat it depends entirely on its age. Young caciocavallo is best sliced thin and eaten with crusty bread or served with seasonal fruit, such as local dried figs. If the cheese is aged, it is often too firm for a simple sandwich. Instead, try it grilled. Placing a thick slice of aged caciocavallo on a hot griddle allows the exterior to char while the center becomes molten and elastic, a method common in southern Italian home kitchens.

What to drink with it

Because the cheese is rich, salty, and increasingly sharp with age, it requires a partner with sufficient body and structure. The canonical pairing in Basilicata is Aglianico del Vulture, a full-bodied, tannic red wine made from grapes grown in the volcanic soil near the extinct volcano, Monte Vulture. The acidity and bold fruit notes of an Aglianico cut through the fat of the cheese, balancing the savory intensity of the Podolica milk. If you prefer a lighter pairing, a dry, crisp white wine from the region can work with the younger, milder wheels, but the bold intensity of a matured caciocavallo almost always demands the stature of a red.