Valpolicella

Valpolicella is a series of valleys stretching north from the outskirts of Verona into the foothills of the Lessini Mountains. It is a productive, historically significant wine zone that defines itself by a unique technical approach to winemaking. While many Italian wine regions require days of travel to reach and navigate, Valpolicella is integrated into the infrastructure of one of Italy’s most touristed cities. It is a region defined by its gravity, its accessibility, and a production method that fundamentally alters the character of its grapes.

The land and grapes

The region is defined by its geography: a cluster of valleys—Fumane, Marano, and Negrar are the primary ones—that open toward the Adige River. The soils are a mix of limestone, marl, and volcanic basalt, providing the drainage necessary for quality viticulture.

The blend here is canonical: Corvina and Corvinone provide the structure and acidity, Rondinella provides color and yield, and Molinara (once mandatory, now optional) adds nuance. These grapes are hardy and resistant, which is fortunate, as they are subjected to a process that would destroy more delicate fruit: appassimento. This is the drying of grapes on straw mats or in climate-controlled rooms after harvest. By allowing the grapes to dehydrate and concentrate their sugars before fermentation, the growers create a wine of immense power.

The wines

Valpolicella is organized into a hierarchy of intensity. At the base is Valpolicella Classico, a light, tart red meant for young drinking. Moving up, there is the Ripasso method. This is a practical solution to a surplus problem: winemakers take the pomace (the leftover skins and seeds) from the fermentation of Amarone and add it to a standard Valpolicella. This triggers a second fermentation, adding body, tannins, and deeper flavor to the wine.

At the pinnacle is Amarone della Valpolicella, a dry, high-alcohol wine made entirely from dried grapes. It is dense, often characterized by notes of dried cherry, chocolate, and spice. Its predecessor is Recioto, the original sweet wine of the valley. If fermentation is stopped before all the sugar is converted, the result is Recioto; if it is allowed to continue to near-dryness, it is Amarone. It is a technical feat of chemistry that has dominated the region’s commercial output for decades.

Visiting

Valpolicella is the most logistically straightforward wine region in Italy. Because it sits immediately north of Verona, you do not need to stay in a vineyard house to experience the production. Most travelers base themselves in Verona, renting a car or hiring a driver for a half-day or full-day excursion into the hills.

The wineries, or cantine, are well-accustomed to visitors. Larger producers offer structured tours and tasting flights, while smaller family estates require advance booking. Because the region is relatively small, you can see two or three producers in a single afternoon. If you prefer to stay in the countryside, there are a number of farm-stays (agriturismi) in the upper reaches of the valleys near Sant’Ambrogio or Fumane, though these will be significantly quieter than the city center.

What to eat with it

The food of the Veronese countryside is hearty and rustic, designed to stand up to the weight of the local wines. Because of the history of livestock farming in the Lessini hills, the diet is heavily focused on beef and horse meat—the latter, pastissada de caval (a slow-cooked horse meat stew), is a specific regional specialty often served with polenta.

In the autumn and winter, when the wines are at their most relevant, the menu turns to game and braised meats. Risotto all’Amarone is ubiquitous, though it is a dish that relies entirely on the quality of the wine used; at its best, it is a deep purple, savory, and rich main course that exemplifies the synergy between the cellar and the kitchen. If you find yourself in the valley, look for simple trattorias that serve bigoli (thick, extruded pasta) with a duck ragù. It is consistent, reliable, and exactly what the wine requires.